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Three
commonly used methods for de-molding:
1.
Place wedges between the flange of the plug and the flange
of the mold. Make them of wood or plastic to remove the
possibilities of scratching the units. Apply pressure evenly
by driving the wedges in at an equal distance around the
units. Take extreme caution to assure that the wedge does
not penetrate the layers of the laminate.
2.
Inject air between the plug and mold. The air should be
moisture-free and regulated at 60-80 p.s.i. A common practice
is to start a wedge and blow air in the opening created
by the wedge.
3.
Use water in extreme circumstances where wedges and air
cannot remove the units. Since water creates a lot of pressure,
take care that the mold or plug does not blow apart due
to the pressure exerted by the water. Water and wedges will
work well together if the units are difficult to de-mold.
After
de-molding, examine both the plug and mold for surface defects.
If you have been careful when surfacing the plug, the mold
surface should be nearly perfect, requiring a minimal amount
of attention. When a mold has "flange areas", they
should be treated as though they are a part of the mold. This
will enhance the life of the mold dramatically.
THE
PROTOTYPE PART
Preparing
the mold for the prototype:
Buff,
sealer glaze, and wax. Remember to use the A-B-C-D-system
of waxing as described previously in the waxing section. The
prototype will check for dimensional and esthetic compliance.
This check is most critical because the glass master will
be produced from this mold. Check all areas of this prototype.
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